Syd Mead concept art from the Blade Runner 30th Anniversary blu-ray still gallery, part two: interiors
darupie asked:
Syd Mead concept art from the Blade Runner 30th Anniversary blu-ray still gallery, part two: interiors
darupie asked:
I don’t mix colours..
I do my Flats on their respective layers. I block in my colours.
On a layer above all the flats, I render out and “blend” with basic brushes. I then erase what I don’t want and usually merge down into the flat layers
And finally I’ll go ABOVE all the layers and refine, add details etc.

My brushes?


“BUT HOW DO YOU BLEND??????”

for all my wet-specimen admiring friends
*shudders*
I NEED TO DO THIS
gonna do this with macklemores head
don’t save as jpeg
as a former yearbook editor and designer, let me explain this further
if youre only planning on posting your art online, them please save it as .png ;this is also better for transparencies as well
BUT
please, if youre planning of printing your art, NEVER use png. it makes the quality of the image pretty shitty. use jpeg or pdf instead. and always set your work at 300dpi to get a better printing quality - this means, the images are crisper and sharper and theres no slight blurriness. i had a talk with my friend who is currently taking design, and pdf is much better to use when youre working with a bigger publishing company because it still has the layers intact, but if youre only planning on printing your stuff at staples or at some small publishing store, the jpeg is the way to go.
this has been a public service announcement
This post has about 30,000 notes and a lot of back and forth on what you should and shouldn’t do. Part of this is because there is a lot of personal preference when it comes to printing. People like to work with different formats and equipment because that is what they learned on. They achieve basically the same things through different methods and much like Mac/PC… there is much debate.
I don’t have a degree in anything but maybe I can clear a few things up.
First of all, if you are printing things yourself, there is no reason to convert your photoshop or illustrator document to anything else before printing. So keeping it a PSD or AI file is fine. If you are having someone else print your document, ask them how they prefer the file to be formatted. They will choose the best option for their experience and equipment.
Keep in mind you will get sharper prints if you adjust your document’s pixels per inch to match the printer. Epsons are 360ppi. Most other manufacturers are 300ppi. Sometimes people erroneously refer to this as dpi, so just be aware of that.
I wrote a more detailed post on how big you should make your art here.
On file formats…
JPEG - This compresses your image to make the file size smaller. This can cause quality loss because it is basically throwing away data. This is especially hard on text, graphics, and simpler artwork. Fine lines can get jagged and pixelated during the compression process. However, photos and photo-realistic art will look just fine.
That means JPEGs are ideal for posting photographs or highly detailed artwork online. They are compatible with all browsers and will load much faster for people with slow connections. At the sizes people view JPEGs on the web, it will be hard to see the loss of quality.
As long as the resolution is good and the compression is minimal, you can still get nice prints from a jpeg, but it is not ideal.
TIFF - This is basically a super JPEG. It has no compression and is compatible with most image editors. It handles colors well and prints nicely. Due to its robust compatibility, most printers can handle TIFFs with no worries. If I had to save a file into a flattened format, TIFF is probably my choice. The disadvantage is that the file sizes can be very large and you cannot publish TIFFs online in very many places.
PNG - These are typically used for web-based graphic design or simple artwork. They are compatible with all browsers and allow you to preserve transparency. They also render text and fine lines much better than JPEGs. If you were posting more cartoon-like artwork online or something very graphical (charts and graphs) this would be a good option. File sizes can get big with more complicated images. I don’t recommend saving photos or photo-realistic artwork as PNGs.
In my experience I have found that color rendering with PNGs is a bit unreliable, so I would probably avoid this format for printing purposes.
PDF - This is basically a container. You can throw whatever you want into a PDF. It will maintain the quality of the images you put inside it. PDFs are great for multi-page documents. Especially if they are a mix of graphics, art, text, and photos. If you don’t have experience using publishing software like InDesign, this is a good alternative for these types of jobs. If you only have one page to print, I’m not sure it is worth the trouble of making it a PDF.
RGB vs CMYK
I recommend always starting your document in the RGB colorspace and converting it later only if needed. It is rare that you do not publish on the web, and RGB is much more suited for that. Converting from RGB to CMYK is much easier than the other way around.
If you are printing yourself, you are probably using an inkjet. Modern inkjets do great RGB conversion and in some cases will handle it better than CMYK. You can try both formats, but in the end you will just have to accept the fact that nothing you can do will get you a perfect color match. The goal is to get a good print. View it and judge it independently of what is on your screen. Do not drive yourself mad trying to get them to match perfectly.
If you are having someone else print your work, again, ask them what they prefer. If they have large offset printers, they may ask for CMYK. If they have inkjets, they may just want RGB files. If this is a very large printing operation, your printer should want to do any color conversions themselves. If they do not, I might suggest looking for a different printer.
I hope that is helpful. Happy printing.
i couldn’t fall asleep a couple nights ago so i drew terra’s oc.
http://speeg.co.vu/ url probably be broken in like 2 days
I CAN’T HANDLE CUTE ART OF MY HORSE DUDE I’M TRYING TO CONTAIN SCREAMS
GOD BLESS
Slavegirl 2 #slavegirl #warhammer #warhammer40k #warhammer40000 #brothervinni by zod1988 http://gbp24.me/1fd1ye8
March 07, 2014 at 12:26PM
Figured I’d do this sooner or later.
Okay, this is a step by step tutorial of the tool I use to animate.
You will need:
1. Photoshop CS4 or later (It needs to be EXTENDED version. Go to Window > Animation/Timeline in your version and if you see this button in the bottom right hand corner of the panel, you’re in luck.)

(I use Photoshop CS5 Extended,btw. That would be most accurate to what I’m about to teach you.)
2. Hopefully a tablet. Not required, but it’ll help with the tools I’ll be providing.
3. A good idea of how Photoshop works. This isn’t advanced per-say, but it does require you to know your way around Photoshop and how to change certain hot-keys/ use actions etc. I’ll guide you through and explain, anyways.
4. Patience and of course, Curiosity. What I’m telling you is the tip of the Iceberg, I’m finding more efficient methods to animate in PS to this day with this goddamn tool. Explore and Experimentation is the key to learning everything this tool will provide.
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Ok, now that we’re ready, lets get set up.
This is the mode we’ll be animating. As shown, if you add certain layers, you can change their starting and ending visibility with the bars. Basically telling what layer when to start showing and when to stop showing. (there’s ways around this, but that’s for another tutorial.)

- Before starting, you want to open your Timeline’s drop-down menu and go to Document settings. Here, you’re able to set the length of your animation (or enter a number for how many frames you want)

-Ideally, you would want 10 or 12 frames-per-second, This should give you a gentle running speed.

Now that you have your Timeline set up and you frame-rate and frame-count ready, we can begin using Video Layers.
Ok, think of them like Layers that are Empty video files. They have a blank canvas for each frame over the course of the Timeline. We’ll be creating animation frames inside of them. This is a far more efficient method than the old ’Animation[Frames]’ Method which requires you to fiddle with Layers on every frame, making it a hassle to animate anything.
So where do you find these magical Video Layers?
Layer > Video Layers > New Blank Video Layer

[As you can see, I’ve also Binded hot-keys to the options for quick access when animating. You can do your own by going to Edit > Keyboard Shortcuts]

And you have now created a Video Layer. A Layer than has a blank canvas for each frame in the timeline.

-Animating? That’s as simple as drawing into a normal Layer. Just select your frame and animate away.
You can use the Time controls to go forward and backward with frames with ease!
-Now, how do you add in blank frames? How do you duplicate and remove frames?
Go to Layer> Video Layers > Insert/Duplicate/Delete Frame.
Congratulations! You’ve successfully created a Video Layer and animated inside of it!
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Now, Ready for Extra Tools?
*Timeline Shortcuts - This will allow you to use arrow keys to seek through your timeline. Go into the Timeline Drop-down Menu and Select Enable Timeline Shortcut Keys.

Left and Right will take you to the last frame and next frame, Space will Play the animation. It’s handy if you just want to get a faster feeling of animating.
*Onion Skin - This tool gives you the ability to see the previous and next frames as if it were tracing paper. To activate it, click the onion skinning button on the bottom of the timeline.

How do you change the visibility and scope of your Onion Skin layers? Simply open the Timeline drop-down menu and Onion Skin Settings has everything there.

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More Tools
[ File : Animation.atn ] < click to download Actions
Here are some Actions I created that I use now and then.
To load them, Open the Window > Actions Panel, Click the Actions Dropdown Menu and Load the file.

This will give you a few Animation-themed Actions.
The first one, Make New Animation, is bind to the F2 Key. Meaning by pressing F2, it’ll automatically set up your Document Settings and create a blank video layer for you. [oooh, nifty!]
To use an action, click on it, and press the play button.

Automatic Actions! Handy and at the push of a button! [F2]
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“I don’t like drawing with the tools in photoshop”
They take some time getting used to, if you want, I’ll give you my tools.
Open Window > Tool Preset and load up my tool presets file from the Tool Presets Drop-Down Menu.

I generally like using [Brush] Lineart Brush for my lines, but feel free to play around with whats there.
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Finally, I know a lot of you don’t like using Photoshop as a means to clean up in, and that’s perfectly understandable, So I’ll tell you how to export for other Programs.
1. Once your animation is complete and running how you want it to, In the Timeline Drop-down Menu, Click Flatten Frames to Layers, This will turn all of your frames into Program-friendly Layers for export.

2. Save your file as a PSD and open it in your preferred art program of choice.
3. Do your cleaning up, colouring, etc.
4. If it’s all perfect and each final frame is on it’s own layer, Reopen the PSD in Photoshop and in the Timeline Drop-Down Menu, Click Make Frames from Layers. This will arrange your layers in order from bottom to top, into start to end of the animation.

And last of all, to export your animation, Go to FILE > SAVE FOR WEB AND DEVICES.
(and remember to set your looping to Forever, haha)
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Like I said, this is only the tip of the IceBerg, Experiment and get the most out of this!
I want to thank Sprite37 for showing me Video Layers, shit changed my life, man~
This video also helps if you SERIOUSLY can’t follow the tutorial.
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